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I've had great pizza in Pisa... but I was delighted to discover a new pizzeria closer to home. Enopizzeria, the latest venture from Mauro Marcucci, has only been open a couple of months - and it seems I'm not the only one to have discovered it.
On a cold, raining evening, it was packed to the rafters. Doubling as a wine bar, Enopizzeria is more than your standard pizza restaurant, even though there are 24 tempting toppings to choose from.
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This pasta is shiny black and looks as sexy as the black shelves that line the walls. Inside the squares of ravioli is a delicate buffalo mozzarella that complements the prawns, slivered zucchini and rocket leaves beautifully. You couldn't call the serving generous - for $27.50, small is the only word that comes to mind. My companion eyes my seafood pizza and its clear we will be sharing our meals.
Enopizzeria is a sleek restaurant that opened on Neutral Bay's eat street (coming from Mosman, Grosvenor Street is up from Woollies, towards the Oaks Hotel) a year ago.
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Enopizzeria treats pizza production like an Italian nonna makes gnocchi - with care, traditional methods and a lot of heart and soul.
You wont find undercooked, doughy bases sagging under the weight of toppings or overly-saucy and cheesy pizzas here.
Instead you'll get thin, light and air bases sprinkled with fresh ingredients and more-ish herbs and evenly baked so that every bite is a melt-in-your-mouth moment. The homely yet modern-designed eatery on Neutral Bay's buzziest food strip - Grosvenor St - opened just over a year ago under the auspices of owner Mauro Marucci.
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Italians have it easy. All the men are Marcello Mastroianni or Gianluca Zambrotta; all the women are Sophia Loren or Monica Bellucci. Being of Greek descent, MasterChef's George Calombaris doesn't think it's fair. "I went to school alongside a few Italian boys and was always very envious of how cool and hip they were," he says. "Italians always do it better."
Sorry, George, but it's the same with Italian food. The colourful pizzas, the tomato-laced pasta, the golden parmigiano, the flesh-pink prosciutto, the elegant panna cotta. It's art on a plate. It's Arcimboldo and Caravaggio and Morandi all rolled into one and brought to the table by someone who makes a Target T-shirt look good. The rest of us haven't got a chance.
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Enopizzeria combines a restrained palette with strong detailing. Terracotta tiles on the floor and walls evoke rustic charm, while black steel hovers above, defying gravity as it stores and displays over one thousand illuminated bottles of wine.
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Mauro Marcucci has an uncanny knack for picking edible hits. He lobbed early into the action at Maurice Terzini's seminal Melbourne eatery Caffe e Cucina, punted cannily on the duet of pizza and Surry Hills as one of the launch crew at Pizza e Birra and Mille Vini, and now he's tuned in to Sydney's northside restaurant revolution.
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If I had to cobble together a collection of fashionable ingredients to put on a plate this winter, those ingredients might run something like this: lamb shoulder; Tuscan cabbage; farro. All of which would be slow cooked. And served in a wine bar.
Trends are funny things. You see something one or twice, then suddenly it's everywhere. How does it catch on, and who are the people able to track these trends and bring them to us? Well, the guys behind Enopizzeria are clearly keen watchers of what's hot around town, for their newish trattoria-cum-wine bar is bang on the money with just about everything that's in this winter.
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